Signposts
and Junctions
Not knowing the drill, everyone waited for me before walking into the
hut; I was bringing up the rear. We walked into the common area and everyone
had the opportunity to see for themselves what the place had to offer. We
dropped the firewood we had carried down by the pile near the stove. I found
the hut master, in this case hut masters, Tom and Gloria, and registered the
group. They were half-surprised that we had come up in the storm; it was
going to get worse. Nevertheless, here we were, and after introducing
everyone, we followed the trail up to the bunkhouses.
Carter Notch Hut is one of two huts to remain open throughout the year, the
other being the hut at Zealand Notch. Carter Notch Hut sits at an elevation
of almost 3300'. The hut consists of a common use area with kitchen and
dining room, and a small room off the dining room in which the hut master
stayed. The dining room consisted of three long picnic tables. You brought
your own food, which you cooked in the kitchen area on a large gas-fed
stove. There was a well set-up cooking area with plates, utensils, and every
conceivable pan and pot. There was a small wood stove in the common area
that was not to be touched by anyone but the hut master. The stove was never
lit until after 3:00PM, and it was not intended to keep the place too warm.
In the evening when everyone took turns cooking and eating, the hut would
feel very toasty indeed.
There were two unheated and un-insulated bunkhouses sleeping 20 each, each
consisting of 2 rooms that slept 6 and two rooms that slept 4. There was an
outhouse for communal use on a small side-path between the common area and
the bunkhouse. It had a metal seat. Most people pissed in the snow and
covered it up with a sweep of a boot.
We were all staying in the bunkhouse on the left; it looked directly east
towards Wildcat River. We had the first two rooms. It was a bit of a shock
for the uninitiated to come face to face with the unheated and sparse
reality of the bunkrooms. While organizing the trip, I had handed out
informational sheets on what the experience would be, and what each person
needed to do and have. Now, they stood here in the reality of the situation,
they were exhausted from the climb, soaked from sweat, the wind was now
howling, and the temperature was around 20 degrees. While everyone looked
around the room shivering and wondering what to do next, I dropped my pack
on the bunk of my choosing and took dry polypro underwear out of it, quickly
got the boots off, and then stripped off the sweat-soaked clothes from the
climb until I was standing naked. New dry underwear, leggings, and a dry top
felt like heaven. Fresh sock-liners and socks quickly followed, nylon shorts
over the leggings were next, a dry polypro hat, and then a light jacket
suitable for the hut. Almost in unison, everyone followed suit. This is not
a place or a time for the bashful; in true European Hut style, all
accommodations at the White Mountain Huts are unisex. If you are
embarrassed, wait there and shiver in the cold until everyone leaves and you
are alone.
Even though it is a shock to get naked, the warmth supplied by dry clothing
quickly becomes apparent. After everyone was ready, we grabbed our food bags
and wet clothes and walked down to the huts. The wind and snow continued
unabated, and it was dark. We went into the hut through the double-door
entryway, stomped our boots on the grate over a hole in the floor to collect
snow, and walked through the second door into the well-lit and warm common
room.
First, we claimed a picnic table by dropping our food bags on it. Then we
strung up the wet clothes. The hut had long boards with pegs on each side
that hikers can hang wet clothes on; these boards are raised up by a rope to
hang in the relative warmth at the top of the common area.
Because of the storm swirling outside, the weekend crowd would be limited;
there would be no crush cooking dinner tonight. Everyone pulled out some
kind of appetizer for sharing with the group: cheese and crackers, nuts,
oysters and sardines. Plastic bottles with various liquors appeared on the
table. This had been specified on the information sheets handed out to
everyone weeks before. If you were going to drink, do not carry any glass
bottles. In addition, liquor was better, as wine would freeze solid if left
in the unheated bunkrooms. Liquor and cold temperature could be a dangerous
mix, but this was to be an enjoyable adventure, not just a wilderness
struggle. I made some instant lemonade and poured myself a tall rum drink.
It was good to relax. The conversations began to rise and be animated as the
struggles of the climb gave way to the fellowship of the hut and the
cocktail hour within.
After a while, I turned my attention to preparing dinner. I opened up a tube
of bread dough and put it in the oven on a small cookie sheet to bake. For
dinner, I had prepared back at home, some meatballs with fried peppers and
onions; after cooking, I had frozen them together with some pizza sauce in a
Ziploc bag. I had some provolone cheese slices that I set on the counter,
and I dropped the bag of meatballs into a pot of boiling water to heat,
dinner would be a hot meatball grinder and cleanup would be minimal. There
was no running water in the kitchen, large jugs filled from the lake
supplied water as needed. The sinks drained into buckets that were emptied
into a gray-water trap outside.
The group was taking care of making their dinners as well. Macaroni and
cheese was always a favorite because that pasta dinner is filling and
delicious, and it is also light to carry; several in the group shared a
large pot of it with bread and butter. In thirty minutes, my bread was done;
I removed it from the oven, sliced it open, and ladled the hot meatballs
with onion and pepper sauce out of the bag and into the hot loaf. After
covering the top with provolone cheese, I set it back on the sheet and slid
it into the oven to toast and melt the cheese. Soon, I was sitting at the
table with a great sandwich, a bag of potato chips, and a tall fresh drink.
Someone passed me a cold glass of white wine that I accepted gladly.
Conversation lagged as people got down to the business of eating. Outside,
the storm raged through the notch.
After dinner, there was chocolate and port. Everyone was in a fine mood as
we enjoyed the conviviality of the hut. Yawns were starting to appear as the
warmth and after dinner nod came over the group. The temperature was not
that high in the hut; the hut masters prided themselves on how little wood
they used during a winter season, and there was a competition in that
regards with Zealand Hut. However, with cooking, baking, and a hot meal in
everyone’s stomach, it felt warm indeed. The hours slid by.
Around nine, the hut’s ham radio barked to life with a message from Pinkham.
It turned out that someone was injured or having difficulty down in the dark
on the trail. We wondered if it might be Jim trying to come up at night.
Pinkham suggested Tom bring down the litter from the hut, while they would
sent some responders up the trail to meet him. Tom set about getting ready
to go down the trail; pack, gaiters, snowshoes, headlamp. Gloria helped him
get the emergency litter outside and tied it behind him. A first-aid kit was
tied down on the top. Outside it was cold and windy, and the snow began to
accumulate in the trail and in drifts. Tom set out through the trees heading
for the lake and the trail down to Rte 16, the small beam of light shining
on the snow in front of him. We saw him reach the lake, and then the light
was quickly lost to the dark and blowing snow.
We retreated to the warmth of the hut. I marveled at the dedication of those
that would go out to help on a night like this. Soon, it was time to face
the cold of the bunkrooms and see about some much needed sleep. Leaving
Gloria to operate the radio and maintain her vigil for Tom, we left the
warmth of the hut and walked back to our cold rooms through the blizzard and
the wind.
| Helen, MB, Peter | Frank feeling tired | |
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| Cocktail hour | Sam and Peter smoke in the entry way | |
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| Feeling the efforts of the day | Tom the hut master sitting at door | |
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